Sng Poker Strategy What are Sit & Goes
34 beginner, intermediate and advanced lessons in Texas Hold'em Sit N Go (SNG) strategy at kinabarn.se, the world's leading online poker school. Über 35 Strategie-Lektionen für Texas Hold'em 'Sit and Go'-Turniere (SNGs) für Anfänger sowie durchschnittliche und erfahrene Spieler bei kinabarn.se Sit and go poker strategy. One of the worlds best SNG pros show the secrets to winning big at one table poker tournaments. Sit 'n Go Strategy: Expert Advice for Beating One-Table Poker Tournaments | Moshman, Collin | ISBN: | Kostenloser Versand für alle Bücher mit. Bankroll Management is very important for every poker player who want to be successful A smart MTT, SNG, DON players should manage their bankrolls like a business Conservative Strategy of Bankroll Management.
Sit 'n Go Strategy eBook: Moshman, Collin: kinabarn.se: Kindle Store. Essential Poker Math, Expanded Edition: Fundamental No Limit Hold'em. Copyright , PokerStrategy. com 1 PS-SNG-BASIC-HANDOUT-EN SIT AND GO BEGINNER STRATEGY More than 12 big blinds: Before the fop. Sit 'n Go Strategy: Expert Advice for Beating One-Table Poker Tournaments | Moshman, Collin | ISBN: | Kostenloser Versand für alle Bücher mit.
If SNGs are going to be your bread and butter, you should be cashing at least 40 percent of the time. Your opening range should be a little wider in the early stages.
The typical online sit-n-go features a starting stack of 1, chips , an opening big blind of 20 , and minute levels.
In this set-up, each player has 75 BBs. You can afford to play speculative hands suited connectors down to , low pocket pairs and any suited ace early.
One thing to keep in mind is that for the first two levels, most hands are going to see at least three and maybe four players post-flop, so you'll have to adjust your strategy.
With those kinds of hands it is imperative to thin the field before the flop. If you've got a hand at the bottom of your range and you're in early position, don't be afraid to limp and hope it goes through.
Even if it doesn't, you've only cost yourself one BB. If you do get raised, you can reassess when it gets back to you and decide if it's worth the additional chips to call.
Take into consideration your position, the size of the raise and the number of players in the pot. If you're going to be first to act in a four-way pot with pocket 3s and it's going to cost you four more BBs to make the call, then it may not be worth it.
You know you're going to have to hit a set to win this hand, and you're going to be vulnerable to a re-raise if you try a bluff.
Chances are too strong in a four-way pot that somebody will connect with the flop. By the time you reach the third or fourth level, average stack sizes can be down to about BBs, assuming one or two players have already been eliminated, and play tends to tighten considerably.
This is the time to begin implementing your short stack strategy. Eliminate many hands at the bottom of your range and forget about limping.
Each chip is critical, and this is not the time to chase flushes or straights unless you can do so on the cheap. Blind stealing starts to become important, and position becomes critical.
As the field gets smaller, you must also adjust your opening ranges. In a full-ring game, starting hands like A-8 are not really strong, but when the field is reduced to five or six players, an A-8 - especially if it folds to you in late position - is a really strong opening hand.
This is when you also have to monitor the stack sizes of the rest of the table. The small stacks will shove as soon as they get something - low pocket pair, any ace, etc.
You have to be wary of them, especially if they are behind you or in the BB. This is when you also need intelligence on your tablemates.
Some players cannot make strategy adjustments and continue to play speculative hands regardless of their stack size or the stage of the SNG.
Try to isolate those players and extract a payout when their flush or straight doesn't come. This is when the action really starts.
At this stage you are likely down to the money bubble - three or four players. Most hands will be decided with pre-flop aggression, meaning your blind stealing game becomes critical.
Very few hands will see a flop or go to showdown. And there's nothing wrong with scooping pot after pot before the flop. This protects your stack and buys you more time to hit that monster hand.
With fewer players at the table, premium hands take on even greater value. An ace or even a king is very strong, especially in the big blind.
If you have an ace in the BB and someone raises you pre-flop, don't be afraid to counter with an all-in shove. Your opponent could be trying to take advantage of the tight play on the bubble, and you may have him dominated.
Pocket pairs can be also gold. The odds of being dealt a pocket pair are That means that for every 17 hands dealt, there should be one pocket pair.
If people are folding for 2. You want to win the pot while putting the least amount of your chips at risk as possible. You have a stack of 1, and you're on the button.
You raise all-in for 1,; the blinds fold. This hand is different than the previous two. The rule of thumb is if you have 10 BBs or less it's better to just shove all-in than make a small raise.
If you get pushed on then it almost makes a fold mathematically impossible. As we know one of the fundamental theorems of poker is if you're going to call a bet, you're better off making the bet yourself.
So don't mess around with a small raise While playing in the mid-blind region you must always be aware of your table image.
Be aware of how others around the table perceive you. You'll be raising quite a lot and your opponents will change how they play against you.
Some will try and re-steal against you since they know you are raising a lot. If you sense your opponents have picked up you are stealing too much, slow down for a rotation or two.
You can't just constantly push people around with nothing. They'll eventually catch on. Everyone at the table will probably be short-stacked in the classic sense of the word.
The average stack will only be around 12 BBs. This is approaching push-or-fold time for everybody.
Here's where you'll make your profit. Your average sit-and-go player plays this late stage so badly it's laughable.
If you play this stage better than they do you will show a long-term positive expectation. At this stage of the game, post-flop play is out the window - flops are rarely seen.
You have two options: push or fold. And, by god, should you be pushing. Your goal is to win sit-and-gos. You don't want to "limp" into the money.
You have to have the killer instinct to attack and destroy players who are happy just limping into the money or moving up the pay scale.
In poker, if a player is playing scared, he's exploitable. Everyone wants to finish in the money; nobody is playing to get eliminated. You're no different.
But your goal is to win. Therefore, you have to look at the long term and put the short term out of your mind.
Concentrate on making good plays at the correct time and forget about the results. If you make the correct plays, success will eventually follow.
The top three players in a sit-and-go typically get paid. So when you get down to four- and five-handed play, you've reached the bubble.
There will almost certainly be some short stacks thinking if they play ultra-tight they may sneak into the money. They're wrong.
You want to get more aggressive, not less. When play is short-handed the blinds will already be very high. When the game is short-handed, those rotations come fast and furious, decimating your stack.
You're better off pushing all-in without looking at your cards than letting yourself get blinded out. The action is frenetic now and you should be trying to steal as often as you can get away with it.
If you get a feel players are hoping to limp into the money, punish their blinds - they won't defend them. If you notice someone is calling pushes liberally, then ease up your aggression against that player.
I won't discuss in detail the hands you should be willing to push with. I will, however, discuss the situations you should look for to get your hands all-in.
My advice would be this: Never call off your stack hoping for a coin flip. If you think you're flipping, you're better off folding and pushing the next hand blind.
Rely on fold equity to supplement your stack. Your hand value is just something you can fall back on in case you are called!
I'll say it again: fold equity is more important than hand value! You have a stack of 2, The UTG player shoves all-in for 3, The button folds.
You're hoping for a flip, best-case scenario. Worst-case scenario, you're crushed. There's no need to call off your chips hoping for a flip.
If you just wait and shove a hand of your own accord, you'll be better off. The button calls and the blinds fold.
In this situation we shoved a good ace with less than 10 BBs. Obviously we were hoping for a fold. However, the button decided to race with us.
This result is fine. The small blind and the big blind folded, adding in overlay to the pot. That means the pot is laying us better than the odds we're getting on our hand.
But wouldn't that then make the pocket fives call correct too? Yes, in a way it does, but that's looking at this hand in a vacuum and not seeing the big picture.
You're not always going to show up with A-7 here. A lot of the time you'll have a pocket pair that crushes your opponent.
Most importantly, he has no fold equity. He can only win the hand one way: having the best hand hold up. When we shove the A-7, we can win the pot by having everyone fold or we can win at showdown!
The game is four-handed. You have a stack of 1, and everyone has you covered. The blinds fold. Oh noez - you got called by a monster. This is terrible, right?
You're only approximately a underdog versus A-K. And guess what? That difference in expected value is made up by the blind overlay.
So in reality you're not in bad shape at all. No two unpaired cards are that much of a favorite against two other non-paired hands. So don't fret if you get in "bad" - you'll know you made the right play based on your fold equity in the hand!
This is the key to late-stage sit-and-go play. Be the aggressor. The aggressor has two ways to win while the caller only has one. Never allow yourself to get blinded out.
Being blinded out means you gave up on your sit-and-go. Stop trying to limp your way to the small money and start shoving your way to that first-place prize.
While being the aggressor is the key to a quality end game, you can't just fold everything if you aren't the initial raiser.
Sometimes you're going to have to make calls. But there are a few things to take into account before you decide to get all passive and just call.
Obviously if you have a monster, no debate: just get your chips in the middle and hope for the best. The times I'm talking about are those marginal, borderline situations.
You have to look at your stack. If you have no money invested in the pot, then you should be less likely to want to call off your chips.
In fact you should never cold-call your chips off unless you think you are a favorite and are getting odds on your money.
The game is three-handed. You're in the big blind with 6, after posting your blind. The button folds and the small blind shoves for 1, total.
You have invested already. He shoves for 1, total. This means 1, in the pot and you only have to call more. You're getting on your call. The player in the small blind should be shoving almost any two cards here.
Your hand stacks up very well against his range and you're getting on your money. You're only worse than against pocket pairs bigger than both your cards, which is highly unlikely.
Chances are you'll get your money in in a situation. With no danger of getting knocked out, if you make bets all day getting you'll end up rich.
You're in the big blind and have 2, The button folds and the small blind shoves for 3, This one you have to call off your chips. Your hand absolutely crushes the small blind's range.
Even tight players are going to be shoving most aces in this spot and your hand is far better than average. I would recommend you fold a smaller ace in this spot but with a big ace like A-T you have to make the call.
While I recommend against just calling in my overall strategy, I did have to put this in here. I'm amazed at the players I see folding hands with incredible odds.
As a rule of thumb, if you're getting better than you should have a pretty good reason for not calling. Once you get to the end game, you still need to seal the deal.
You've learned all the tools; now you just have to apply them one-on-one. So our focus now is heads-up play. Unfortunately, the way most sit-and-gos are designed online, by the time you get to heads-up play the blinds are so big the game doesn't allow for much play.
I hope you've accumulated some chips because if the chips are even it will be a very tight match. Neither player will hold much of an edge over the other because of the structure.
The match usually comes down to whomever gets the best cards in the shortest period of time. That's not to say it's completely out of your hands though; there's still room for you to exploit your edge.
When you're heads-up, hand values change from what they were pre-flop in the earlier stages. Think of it this way: If your hand is decent short-handed it's a monster heads-up.
Pocket pairs are very robust. Hands are usually won with just one pair at showdown, so if you are dealt one before the flop then you're already ahead of the game.
Top pair is a massive hand heads-up and it's almost always worthy of getting all-in. Hands that decrease in value are weak speculative hands, like low suited connectors.
While they may be decent hands to raise with as a steal, they should not be played against a raise. These hands dramatically drop in value when the stacks are short.
Even if you flop a draw, there's little money to get paid off with. When they do hit the flop, they usually make weak second-pair type hands or gut-shot draws.
Nothing you'd want to risk your tournament life on. You have 6, and so does your opponent. Your opponent bets 3, What should you do?
That's it, that's all. This is the crux of heads-up poker in a sit-and-go. The blinds are too big and there's so little play that if you flop top pair you're destined to get it all-in.
Your opponent calls. Your opponent checks and you bet 3, Your opponent shoves. You have two over-cards and an open-ended straight draw.
You only have 1, in your stack and there's 11, in the pot. To put it bluntly, you're pot-committed. Luckily you have a massive draw and are getting great odds.
It's hands like these your tournament will come down to. You should of course, as always in poker, be exploiting your position to the max.
Continue pushing hard when in position. Don't stop stealing or slow your aggression just because you're heads-up - the game is not over until it's won.
So stay on your toes and keep up the fight.
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